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Tips & Techniques

Get tips and techniques to become a better beader at Lima Beads.

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Using the Beadalon Jump Ring Maker


Make the jump rings you need – in the size and wire gauge you desire – with the exclusive Beadalon Jump Ring Maker. With a wide variety of mandrels available – ranging from 4mm to 16mm, round and oval shapes – you can create just the jump ring you need. Try coiling vivid Artistic Wires together to create colored jump rings that add definition and texture to jewelry designs. You can also use gold-filled, sterling silver, or base metal wire to fashion components that complement your designs. The Jump Ring Maker is so fun and easy to use, you may never want to stop creating your own custom jump rings!


Components:

The products featured in this tip are listed below.


Step-by-Step Instructions:

Step 1:
Decide on the desired jump ring size and choose the appropriate mandrel. Screw the mandrel securely into the base.
Step 2:
Insert pliable wire such as ColourCraft into the small hole in the base; fold the wire down to secure it.
Step 3:
Insert your finger into the large hole in the base and turn it clockwise, while steadily holding the mandrel and wire in the other hand.
Step 4:
Once the wire is coiled, remove it from the base and cut it with the Beadalon Flush Cutter.
Step 5:
Now you can make the right sized jump rings in the colors and plating you choose - any time you want!

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Read the comments (or add your own)

  1. No Photo
    Lyone f says:

    It seems like jump rings made this way are still very pliable. Thus, they are not very useful for making secure connections. Can you add suggestions for hardening the rings without marring the colored coating on the wire? (Also, it is really not that easy to cut through so many pieces of wire all at once–as step 4 makes it seem!)

  2. Lara
    Lara says:

    All you need is to purchase wire that is harder. In silver wire(and I beleive other wires)they are sold as soft, half hard, and hard. Also the gauge or thickness of the wire has some effect on this. If you have a 16g wire it is goinging to be much thicker than say a 22g wire thus making that thicker wire a bit stiffer just by being thicker. Of course the best closure is to learn to sauder them shut which is not too hard to learn and not too expensive. Are you closing the ring by holding it from each side with plyers and twisting it shut? if you are trying to force them together by pushing the two sides together they will never meet properly and will get out of shape…hope that helps.

  3. No Photo
    S Dorris says:

    I’m new to beading and am having a ball…..learning to solder is on my to do list, but in the meantime, could you share a bit more about closing the jump rings, I can’t quite picture what your trying to say. Thanks,

  4. Kate
    Kate says:

    Hi S Dorris– check out this quick little tutorial on closing jump rings: http://www.limabeads.com/Closing-A-Jump-Ring-T27 Hope that helps a bit more! :-)

  5. No Photo
    Rosemarie R says:

    I have tried doing it as you show here but the cut is not that clean, is there a specific flush cutter for this? Also as said above, using thicker gauge wire is impossible to cut, any suggestions?

  6. T Littlewood
    T Littlewood says:

    I use my dremmel with a very thin cutoff wheel. This way both sides of the cut are nice and flush and it zips through them fast. I slip the coil off the jump ring maker on to a wooden chopstick or dowel of a similar diameter (does need to be perfect)and then hold the rotary tool 90′ to the coil and cut. Have some water near by and quench the jump rings as they could be a bit hot depending on the guage … and read and understand the safety manual for your tool.

    If you don’t have one (I’d say get one,very handy for all sorts of things) just cut them one at a time, with a good flush cutter and they will come free from the coil. :-)

    If you don’t use a flush cutter or a cutoff wheel on a rotary tool the ends will be pinched and will never close seamlessly nevermind solder :-)

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