Tips & Techniques

Get tips and techniques to become a better beader at Lima Beads.

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Using the Beadalon Jump Ring Maker


Make the jump rings you need – in the size and wire gauge you desire – with the exclusive Beadalon Jump Ring Maker. With a wide variety of mandrels available – ranging from 4mm to 16mm, round and oval shapes – you can create just the jump ring you need. Try coiling vivid Artistic Wires together to create colored jump rings that add definition and texture to jewelry designs. You can also use gold-filled, sterling silver, or base metal wire to fashion components that complement your designs. The Jump Ring Maker is so fun and easy to use, you may never want to stop creating your own custom jump rings!


Components:

The products featured in this tip are listed below.


Step-by-Step Instructions:

Step 1:
Decide on the desired jump ring size and choose the appropriate mandrel. Screw the mandrel securely into the base.
Step 2:
Insert pliable wire such as ColourCraft into the small hole in the base; fold the wire down to secure it.
Step 3:
Insert your finger into the large hole in the base and turn it clockwise, while steadily holding the mandrel and wire in the other hand.
Step 4:
Once the wire is coiled, remove it from the base and cut it with the Beadalon Flush Cutter.
Step 5:
Now you can make the right sized jump rings in the colors and plating you choose - any time you want!

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Read the comments (or add your own)

  1. No Photo
    Lyone f says:

    It seems like jump rings made this way are still very pliable. Thus, they are not very useful for making secure connections. Can you add suggestions for hardening the rings without marring the colored coating on the wire? (Also, it is really not that easy to cut through so many pieces of wire all at once–as step 4 makes it seem!)

  2. Lara
    Lara says:

    All you need is to purchase wire that is harder. In silver wire(and I beleive other wires)they are sold as soft, half hard, and hard. Also the gauge or thickness of the wire has some effect on this. If you have a 16g wire it is goinging to be much thicker than say a 22g wire thus making that thicker wire a bit stiffer just by being thicker. Of course the best closure is to learn to sauder them shut which is not too hard to learn and not too expensive. Are you closing the ring by holding it from each side with plyers and twisting it shut? if you are trying to force them together by pushing the two sides together they will never meet properly and will get out of shape…hope that helps.

  3. No Photo
    S Dorris says:

    I’m new to beading and am having a ball…..learning to solder is on my to do list, but in the meantime, could you share a bit more about closing the jump rings, I can’t quite picture what your trying to say. Thanks,

  4. Kate
    Kate says:

    Hi S Dorris– check out this quick little tutorial on closing jump rings: http://www.limabeads.com/Closing-A-Jump-Ring-T27 Hope that helps a bit more! :-)

  5. No Photo
    Rosemarie R says:

    I have tried doing it as you show here but the cut is not that clean, is there a specific flush cutter for this? Also as said above, using thicker gauge wire is impossible to cut, any suggestions?

  6. T Littlewood
    T Littlewood says:

    I use my dremmel with a very thin cutoff wheel. This way both sides of the cut are nice and flush and it zips through them fast. I slip the coil off the jump ring maker on to a wooden chopstick or dowel of a similar diameter (does need to be perfect)and then hold the rotary tool 90′ to the coil and cut. Have some water near by and quench the jump rings as they could be a bit hot depending on the guage … and read and understand the safety manual for your tool.

    If you don’t have one (I’d say get one,very handy for all sorts of things) just cut them one at a time, with a good flush cutter and they will come free from the coil. :-)

    If you don’t use a flush cutter or a cutoff wheel on a rotary tool the ends will be pinched and will never close seamlessly nevermind solder :-)

  7. No Photo
    S McDermott says:

    Which Dremel wheel do you use? I tried a diamond tipped one but it didn’t seem to want to cut thru the metal. : (.

  8. T Littlewood
    T Littlewood says:

    Hello there S McDermott :-) can’t believe I caught this out of the corner of my eye. I always veer on more info, so I hope this helps you and anyone else :-)

    I use Dremel cut-off wheel no. 409 with a steady hand… lol.

    slide the coil of wire you just made off the jump ring maker onto something like a thin paint brush handle or small file handle (whatever you use know it will get cut or marked) it works better if the wire coils inner diameter is larger than whatever you use to hold it.

    Secure tail left from the jumpring maker with clothes peg etc. to said holder i.e.paint brush, chopstick, file handle. This will help keep your hand free of the cut-off wheel and the hot coil

    Know and follow all manufacturers directions for your rotary tool, especially eye protection :-) and recommended speed for your tool and materials being cut

    Starting from the far end of the coil, slide the cut off wheel into the coil of jump rings keeping the cut-off wheel 90° to your wire coil (I found that pressing down from the top mushroomed the ends) .

    Have small dish of water to quench the jump rings as they will be hot.

    Tip: pull on the coil a bit to stretch it out before cutting and then they fall off open and ready to use :-)

    Take your time and use cheap wire, like any skill you will improve with practice

    Coated and coloured wire seams will be more noticable as a very little bit of their base metal will flash in the seam, if you’re fussy (or not as cheap as me, lol) buy the matching jump rings. no method of cutting your own jump rings will hide this in coated wire, I mainly use copper wire so it is not a concern for me :-)

    Attachment Attachment Attachment

  9. No Photo
    S McDermott says:

    Thank you so much! It was comical when I tried the one time, I had put blue painters tape over the jump rings to keep them in place. The wheel didn’t want to cut thru the tape so I peeled it off. Every time a jump ring would be cut, it would fly away and land somewhere else in the room.

    I’ve practice a lot since asking, I think I have a manual technique down. I stretch the coil out a but, cut each one out seperately using the flush end of my cutters on each end. I may try the Dremel again! I couldn’t think of anything to put the coil on except a pencil and 8 yr old my son didn’t want me to mess up any, lol. Thanks so much for the tips!

  10. No Photo
    T Bihm says:

    I find 14 gauge works better for jump rings. I have used and made other gauges and they always seem to not hold very well. I mean bracelets don’t stay together.
    BTW, I just stubbled upon this site and I have to say it’s one of the best!

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